Giant Judds in Marfa, TX

After leaving the Big Bend area, we headed north to Marfa, TX, a small (pop. 2000+) town that could be just another point on the West Texas map if it weren't for a history of movie making and minimalist art. The movie Giant was filmed there in the 50's. There are signed photos from Liz Taylor, Rock Hudson, James Dean and the rest of the cast in the lobby of El Paisano Hotel. More recently There Will Be Blood was shot outside of the town and No Country for Old Men shot some scenery nearby.

But enough about the movies, you want to hear about boxes, fluorescent lights, and crumpled cars, right? That's right, the art. Donald Judd founded the Chinati Foundation in the late 70's, using a former army base as a location to house the minimalist art he and his buddies created. Makes sense, right? Where else would you house hundreds of aluminum boxes but inside not one, but two converted artillery sheds?

Now you may be guessing at this point that I'm not awed by the works of Judd, Flavin, or Chamberlain. And you'd be guessing right. I was hesitant to go to Marfa in the first place. But after our two part tour of the Chinati Foundation, I revised my opinions. Here's what I walked away with: 1) The buildings were awesome. Judd made simple revisions to the army buildings that kept the original feel while adding minimal, but elegant details. The "Judd Door" itself is worth the visit 2) I was stunned that the ego of these artists could be bigger than I'd expected. These buildings are fantastic and there is so much space at Chinati. But TWO buildings of aluminum boxes? Come on. One was impressive and even quite beautiful, but TWO? SIX barracks of Flavin's fluorescence? We couldn't help but imagine revising the use of space.

BTW, if you do end up in Marfa, stop by Ballroom Marfa. Great contemporary art space.


David and Krista enjoy the shade inside a Judd sculpture.

Boxes may make good art, but chairs? Not so much.

Food Shark parked in downtown Marfa served up some very tasty black bean tacos and a grilled chicken sandwich. Why can't Roswell have mobile food like this?

Influenced by the multiples at Chinati? Or just fans of the buddy system? The men's bathroom at El Paisano is rumoured to have been used by Rock Hudson, James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor...simultaneously.


Leaving town, we found ourselves behind a very familiar EuroVan. Texas is not VW country, so we knew right away....Roger and Connie! Our camp neighbors at Big Bend were passing through Marfa just as we were leaving. David ran them off the road and we agreed to meet for dinner in the next town. We also shared a campsite with them in the Davis Mountains that night. If you ever spot this VW on the road, I highly recommend following them to the next campsite and sharing a beer or two. Good peeps.