
Our recent New Mexican explorations took us to
Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

First we went to Slaughter Cave - a moderately difficult, "unimproved", ranger lead tour. We hiked a .5 mile up this mountain to the cave opening where we waited for the ranger to arrive. Once he arrived he briefed us on some of the things to expect in the cave, and how to relay messages down the line when we encountered slippery spots, holes or interesting things to look at.
Although we felt totally safe (for the most part), Krista and I talked afterwards about how we felt a little quickening of the pulse as we walked down into the cave. It was about 20 degrees cooler than outside, 90% humidity and of course, very very dark. Each of us had a flashlight and we walked single file. One of the most beautiful images that sticks with me from the experience is looking back at the line of people behind us - 20 tiny, slow moving halos of light surrounded by total blackness.

There were a couple of very elaborate speleothems (the all encompassing word used to describe cave decorations like stalactites and stalagmites) like one called "the Klansman" which can apparently be seen in the background in one of the scenes from
King Solomon's Mines - the 1950 version. Once we were in the "Christmas Tree Room" we sat down for a while and listened to Ranger Rob's story about how the cave came to be called "Slaughter Cave." He had us turn our flashlights off, and enjoy the complete absence of light and noise except for an occasional drip, drip, drip. He told us about a cocky guano miner who took on the challenge of navigating the cave with no light. I'll spare you the somewhat anticlimactic ending, and suffice it to say that he made the whole story up.
It was kind of difficult to take pictures in the cave, seeing as how there was no light. But, using the flash, we were able to get some pics.


Later we went to the bigger, more accessible Natural Entrance cave tour. This cave is huge, has a paved trail with hand rails and is lit up inside. You walk 750 feet down into the earth and are surrounded by a variety of rock formations. It is quite dramatic, add to that the smell of fresh guano. Here, because of the artificial lighting, it was easier to take pictures.
This morning, back in Roswell, Krista and I talked about the 2 caving experiences which brought up a conversation we've had several times about the parks system in general.
The first cave tour was exciting and mysterious. It recreated, as much as possible, the feelings of fear, intrigue and curiosity that the first explorers of Slaughter cave must have felt. There was a half-mile uphill hike through a scenic desert canyon to the cave entrance. This made going into the cave feel like a reward - similar, although admittedly not nearly as dramatic, as having found the cave for the first time. Once inside the cave, the Ranger guided us, but also assumed that we were all capable of being responsible for our own safety. "Unimproved" turned out to be not exactly as rugged as we had thought (the cave was once extensively mined for guano, so some steps and trails were made as you can see in the picture above.) But we had to be wary of many of the same dangers as the first explorers. The rock features inside were beautiful, but difficult to see even when everyone had their flashlights pointing in the same direction. In terms of sensory stimuli, it provided a great deal, especially for first time spelunkers. But because of the total darkness, and lack of creature comforts, it left us with more of a mental outline rather than a complete picture.

The second cave, in terms of physical exertion was a walk in the park, so to speak. There was little fear of bodily harm, save for the threat of being trampled by overweight Texans, if for some reason an electrical hiccup caused the lights to go out. The lighted caverns are very cool, and the rock features were very dramatic, again, especially for a first timer. Maybe even more so than the first cave. But we found ourselves recalling previous experiences of simulated caves. Krista and I both mentioned caves we remembered from movies and TV shows. Not to mention museum exhibits, amusement parks and Las Vegas resorts. There is a somewhat steep entrance, but it is optional - if you'd like to tour the cave, but not have to walk downhill, you can always take the elevator. Oh, and if you get hungry, you can eat a hamburger in the underground snack bar, and use the bathroom afterwards.
So, back to the conversation Krista and I have had about the parks: The topic generally comes up after feeling cheated out of some kind of "authentic" experience. In the parks, this is usually brought on by inconsiderate tourists or an over-dramatization or novelization of nature. Carlsbad has both in abundance, and this is what most people end up seeing. But that's fine. Just as long as the money that the tourists are dumping into potato chips and cheap stuffed animals helps to preserve the more "unimproved" experience for those who want it. Even though the crowds surrounding the more accessible sites can be quite annoying, they are a necessity for the rest of us who want to use our imaginations and play caver for a day.
