Wait a minute, is that Mexico?

You'll hear many Big Benders say, that ironically, some of the best views in the park are not of the actual park. They're of the towering cliffs and mountains that lie just on the other side of the Rio Grande in Mexico. I'm not sure if that's irony exactly. But I am sure that if a big fence goes up in the middle of it all, it would really crap things up.


On the way to Santa Elena Canyon.


A "beach" on the Rio Grande.


Santa Elena Canyon is a popular spot for canoing and kayaking. We saw a group of boats pass by. The water was very shallow this time of year, so they actually did more wading and pulling than rowing.

Just on the outside of Big Bend National Park lies Big Bend Ranch State Park. This area is equally as beautiful, but less accessible. Before we went, I asked a Ranger if the temperature would be in the 100's down near the river. He said it would be in the millions. Fortunately for us, it was a bit overcast that day.

It was so tempting to cross the border here. It would have been so easy! And I would have done it too if Krista hadn't threatened to not make my bail if I got caught.


On "the Hill" in BBRSP.


Is Mexico? Is not Mexico. Along the drive through BBRSP there is a movie set called the Comanchero Movie Set. It was used for several TV movies made from Larry McMurtry books.


We took a short hike in Closed Canyon. We would have gone all the way to the banks of the Rio Grande, but had to turn back because of a run-in with an uncharacteristically aggressive pack of starved Javelinas...just kidding, they were actually just Texans dressed as Javelinas. Very convincing costumes, though!

The Devil's Hiking Boots

After night 5 of waking up with our air mattress fully or partially deflated, despite patching every microscopic hole we could find, we decided to head back to Roswell for showers and a good night's sleep. But we couldn't resist stopping for one last hike in Guadalupe Mountains National Park before crossing back into New Mexico. David couldn't resist this fallen tree.

We hiked Devil's Hall, a natural staircase in a canyon. We have noticed that "Devil's -----" is a popular naming sequence for many locations out west. Devil's Tower, Devil's Den, Devil's Lake, Devil's Garden. David and I came up with a few suggestions for future labeling: Devil's Pantry, Devil's Teacup, Devil's Dishwasher, Devil's Crockpot, Devil's Fainting Couch, Devil's Changing Table (our list went on for a good part of the hike.)

Giant Judds in Marfa, TX

After leaving the Big Bend area, we headed north to Marfa, TX, a small (pop. 2000+) town that could be just another point on the West Texas map if it weren't for a history of movie making and minimalist art. The movie Giant was filmed there in the 50's. There are signed photos from Liz Taylor, Rock Hudson, James Dean and the rest of the cast in the lobby of El Paisano Hotel. More recently There Will Be Blood was shot outside of the town and No Country for Old Men shot some scenery nearby.

But enough about the movies, you want to hear about boxes, fluorescent lights, and crumpled cars, right? That's right, the art. Donald Judd founded the Chinati Foundation in the late 70's, using a former army base as a location to house the minimalist art he and his buddies created. Makes sense, right? Where else would you house hundreds of aluminum boxes but inside not one, but two converted artillery sheds?

Now you may be guessing at this point that I'm not awed by the works of Judd, Flavin, or Chamberlain. And you'd be guessing right. I was hesitant to go to Marfa in the first place. But after our two part tour of the Chinati Foundation, I revised my opinions. Here's what I walked away with: 1) The buildings were awesome. Judd made simple revisions to the army buildings that kept the original feel while adding minimal, but elegant details. The "Judd Door" itself is worth the visit 2) I was stunned that the ego of these artists could be bigger than I'd expected. These buildings are fantastic and there is so much space at Chinati. But TWO buildings of aluminum boxes? Come on. One was impressive and even quite beautiful, but TWO? SIX barracks of Flavin's fluorescence? We couldn't help but imagine revising the use of space.

BTW, if you do end up in Marfa, stop by Ballroom Marfa. Great contemporary art space.


David and Krista enjoy the shade inside a Judd sculpture.

Boxes may make good art, but chairs? Not so much.

Food Shark parked in downtown Marfa served up some very tasty black bean tacos and a grilled chicken sandwich. Why can't Roswell have mobile food like this?

Influenced by the multiples at Chinati? Or just fans of the buddy system? The men's bathroom at El Paisano is rumoured to have been used by Rock Hudson, James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor...simultaneously.


Leaving town, we found ourselves behind a very familiar EuroVan. Texas is not VW country, so we knew right away....Roger and Connie! Our camp neighbors at Big Bend were passing through Marfa just as we were leaving. David ran them off the road and we agreed to meet for dinner in the next town. We also shared a campsite with them in the Davis Mountains that night. If you ever spot this VW on the road, I highly recommend following them to the next campsite and sharing a beer or two. Good peeps.

More Big Bend...

There are 3 sections to Big Bend National Park: The Rio Grande Village, Castelon and the Chisos Basin. All three offer different terrain, climate and flora. We began our stay in the Rio Grande Village section but as we set up camp, I became a quick meal for swarms of hungry 'skeeters. We persevered that night despite the high pitched buzzing in our ears and fellow campers with flatulence issues. We even took a stroll down to the river itself for a glimpse at Mexico. The next morning my skin looked like those candy buttons I used get when I was a kid - pale with red spots. I declared that we wouldn't stay there another night. Off to the Chisos Basin.


Our camp in the Chisos at the base of Casa Grande.


We had the good fortune of choosing a camp site right next to Roger and Connie - an uber athletic couple who had been on the road for a 2 month tour of the National Parks. Roger is a retired Park Ranger, and Connie a school teacher. We compared notes on Bird Nerd sightings over wine. We shared tips on what sights to see next. Roger patiently answered all of our questions about his experience with the Parks System. We had so much to talk about, we finally had to call it quits so we wouldn't wake the snoring Texans.

Our last day at Big Bend we hiked a bit more on our way out of the park.

David rides the line.


Mmmm, rock pretty.


How tall is an Ocotillo?






On the trail.

Birders, Bikers and a Big Bend

Big Bend National Park was a pleasant surprise. First of all, who knew Texas had redeeming qualities! Up until this trip, my understanding of Texas (gathered first and second hand) was thus: 1. DFW Airport is large and confusing. 2. Austin is very, very hot. 3. Our President presided over 152 executions there. 4. The Alamo does NOT have a basement.

But there is so much more! Especially in the lower left corner! Over the course of a week we explored this area on wheels and foot. Here are some pics from the trip...


We hiked to Emory Peak, which is the highest point in the park and the 3rd highest peak in Texas.




Krista stands below Balanced Rock.


The remains of Sam Nail's ranch - he once owned a section of what is now Big Bend NP.


Big Bend is home to over 400 species of birds. The Mexican Jay is one of the greediest of the lot. This one stalked us, begging for trail mix.


Where there are birds, there are herds of bird nerds. This was the over 60 crowd, dressed in full-body khaki. They traveled in white vans and carried binoculars and scopes bigger than them. We enjoyed watching them almost as much as they enjoyed watching birds. In contrast, we also found it interesting to observe the bikers of Big Bend - we're talkin' Harleys here. We watched as one rough looking duo debated the effectiveness of Celebrex versus Ibuprofen (they both had spirited and convincing arguments). They then spiked their Fruit Punch flavored PowerAde with a dose of Jack Daniels, hopped back on their bikes and drove away.

Some Scenes from David's Show at the Roswell Museum

My show is up and running at the Roswell Museum. Here are some pics from the installation process...

The TVs, pre-rigging.


Lift #1.


Thanks to a little RMAC in-house muscle...


Lift #2 is a success.


Here are a few of the final piece...

Ooops!


"Hanging Baggage" - The TVs without the support underneath.


Here you can see where the ropes are tied off to the columns.


Lastly, some folks who came to the opening...

The youngins' take in a movie...


Some brave art enthusiasts.


Mollie and Brinkie.


Sally and Stewart


David and Grandpa Hans

R.A.i.R. Outdoor Club Hikes Sitting Bull Falls

About an hour and half South of Roswell and an hour West of Carlsbad lies Sitting Bull Falls, a hidden gem in an otherwise arid and rugged landscape. The R.A.i.R. Outdoor Club, with its newest member Mimi, braved the high winds and had an excellent day on the trails.


Mimi and Krista debate over who's sunglasses provide more coverage.


Down and into the valley.


Sarah at the foot of the falls.


Sydney's got mad jokes, yo.


David considers reenacting a scene from "The Blue Lagoon."


And they said in unison, "My dawgs are barkin!"